Still Waters Run Deep at Crater Lake National Park

"Seven miles ahead to something truly amazing," the entrance station ranger said as we grabbed our map and fell into a caravan of cars, RVs, and trucks twisting their way toward the main attraction. After watching one rec van careen into the oncoming lane on a sharp turn and another continually crawl to accommodate cyclists without a bike lane, we opted to go the opposite way in search of better conditions to view one glorious hole filled with calm, clear, centuries-old snowmelt.

This was our third attempt to visit the southern Oregon national park. The past two trips were thwarted by wildfires, now common during summer travel in the West. The first time, the park was open but smoke was so thick from nearby blazes that it made no sense to drive that far out of our way with limited visibility. The second time, two years later, it was a wildfire itself that closed roads to park entrances.

Third time's a charm

We decided at literally the last minute to turn off highway 97 toward the southern entrance to the park because the day was clearing of fog and traffic was lighter than expected. And, we'd yet to see a single fire warning traffic sign in the two days since we'd left San Diego to head north. We were not about to push our luck and wait until we were driving home to visit.

I also knew from the National Park Services app that a portion of the East Rim Road was closed for road construction, as were a few popular points of interest. Just a few weeks prior, plow trucks were clearing snow to make way for summer tourists. I was grateful my husband was driving, given the hairpin turns and harrowing, guardrail-less drops. (Husband: "Look down, tell me what you see." Me: "I can't! I can't! I'm scared.")

This had been one reason our original plan was to enter from the north and do the lake rim route clockwise, so we'd always be hugging the lake and not cliffs. We made it to Pinnacles Road, with intentions to see The Pinnacles. However, that road was still closed just past the trailhead for Plaikni Falls, which was listed as a gem and family-friendly hike. A car pulled out of the crowded lot just as we approached.

Family-friendly Plaikni Falls

The trail was true to descriptions: relatively flat and short (137 feet in elevation and about a mile long each way). It was easy to follow and quiet despite the full parking lot. It also came with an excellent payoff -- falls much more impressive than the Vidae Falls we'd stopped to admire on the main drag. This also appeared to be a rest stop for butterflies -- they were everywhere, often settling in a muddy puddle or on some wildflower branch. I swear, more people photographed the butterfly kaleidoscope than waterfall.

The total hike took us about 40 minutes, given we stopped frequently to listen to forest sounds. We then headed west to Rim Village, which has several spectacular overlooks and extremely crowded gift shops, cafe, and restrooms. At least half of the people in line with food were Pacific Coast Trail hikers loading up on carbs. "Hiker hunger is real, man," said the long-haired, bearded guy behind me with a loaded plate of two burgers and extra fries. 

PCT hikers were in abundance because a portion of the trail is close by. They stood out for both their heavy packs and body odor. Given how many treated restroom sinks as washrooms, it's easy to see why it took so long to use any restroom near populated places. Also, unlike our recent trip to Sequoia and Kings Canyon national parks, there were not a lot of restrooms beyond the village. Trust me, I was desperate after drinking more water than I should an hour prior.

Time to get deep

Crater Lake is deep -- 1,943 to 1,949 feet depending on precipitation and evaporation levels. This makes it the deepest lake in the United States; only six others in the world boast greater depths. That said, none of those others are as clear as Crater Lake, where a visitor can see more than a hundred feet down. Waters are still too, because there are no feeder streams or rivers to create surface churn or stir up bottom settlement. That calm and clarity -- in addition to the massive size and extreme blue color -- grab you upon first sight.

The caldera formed after an ancient volcano, Mount Mazama, erupted and collapsed into itself. One visitor sign said it took 250 years for that depression to become the lake we see today. Upon first seeing the six-mile-wide lake, I was awestruck, like the atoms in the air had changed. The volcanic-rock walls reflected in the water's surface and pristine pine groves along the reservoir's edge create quite the purity of place. It's hard to imagine that such prehistoric violence could become this oasis of tranquility. No wonder the Klamath, Modoc, Umpqua, and other indigenous people consider this place sacred.

Run or ride the rim...if you dare

Given this blog's roots, I feel compelled to mention that every August the road that loops the lake is closed to motorists for the Carter Lake Rim Run, where you can do a 10k, half marathon, or full marathon. There's also a 6.7-mile route for walkers. With elevations of  5,980 to 7,850 ft., the high altitude is just one of the challenges. There are no flat portions, and with a field limit of 500, it could get lonely if you crave company on the course.

Much more attractive is Ride the Rim, which happens on consecutive Saturdays in September, where it could be insufferably hot or snowing. You know it's a tough one (with no SAG car should you incur a flat tire or worse) when organizers open with this: "Ride the Rim Crater Lake isn't for the weak hearted. There's a reason we caution participants to know what the route involves before committing to the challenge. But if you've got the gall. . . ." 

I don't. Not yet, at least. I figure I have at least three years to get in Rim-ready shape. 

We were grateful to have finally visited Crater Lake after so many failed attempts. Speaking of which, remember how we didn't want to tempt fate by waiting until the return trip to make this side adventure? We made the right call. The morning we left Redmond to start the long drive home, a heat storm with abundant lighting set off at least a dozen fires just north of the national park.